Thank you for the excellent article on one of my favorite notes in the perfume industry. No matter how much I may read about ambergris, I love the allure and mystery behind this ingredient. I would be honored to receive any of the lovey works featured, but if I had to choose one or two,. Such an interesting article! Anyway, fascinating topic! I have always been fascinated by the scent by the beach. I have wondered if I can one day find the real stuff in a beach.
Parfums Dusita Issara. The Chinese legend about ambergris is fascinatng. Dragons sleeping on rocks that drool ambergris into the ocean? Maybe water dragons in Chinese mythology are actually whales. I had no idea that cuttlefish beaks might cause ambergris to form, the way a bit of grit in an oyster leads to a pearl.
It reminds me of this ambergris story in that even the origin has been muddled a little to quell civilizations discomfort — because I guess whale vomit is better than the other option. I live in Canada, thank you for the draw! Thanks to the very informative post about ambergris. I knew about ambergris, but I got more details.
I am still working on my nose to get ambergris note in the perfumes; not very good at that. My father and grandfather would go digging for clams. They told me it was whale vomit. If I would be so blessed as to win, I would like 1. Rising Phoenix Ambergris tincture, 2. Excellent informative post! That was an interesting article to read and I have found out about the involvement of the cuttlefish in this procedure.
Thank you for so fascinating story. The idea of protecting sperm whales by using the real ambergris sounds interesting and perhaps in a few years the regulations will change? Ambergris is the most mysterious perfume ingredient, so I am happy I could extend my knowledge a little. Poo or not, I love this note. Thank you for so interesting read. I love the idea that ambergris can be found on a beach.
This article has inspired me to return to my beach combing ways, excited to think I could one day make an amazing discovery. Thank you for this in depth post. An amazingly detailed and truly informative article! Thank you for the lovely lecture for I had no idea that ambergris come from whale vomit and even more probable that it comes from the other end of their lower intestine. I was fascinated by the idea that something of this quality like feces can be transformed with natures help into such a treasure.
I would love to smell natural ambergris and see how it can transform a perfume into a masterpiece of high perfumery! My choices are the following:. I am a registered reader living in EU.
Thank you for the lovely review and for the generous draw as well. Great article. The house of Creed have Ambergris as a signature of most of their fragrances. Great read! While reading, I wanted to have samples of all the synthetics named so I could match them and smell them myself.
What a treasure. Ambergris in perfumery is a fascinating tale. The Whalers Joseph Mallord William Turner Sadly, it was the whale-fishing industry that provided answers, helping us to understand that ambergris originates in the digestive tract of whales. Amber resin stones The name amber is famously confusing see my post on amber and generally refers to the yellow-gold gemstone which is smooth to the touch and may contain insects while ambra may be shorthand for ambergris.
March 9, at pm. March 10, at am. Familiar with every beach and nook and cranny on the west coast of Ireland, Lillis sells any bounty to brokers and on Etsy to niche perfumers. Just a touch of ambergris will transform any oil.
You would not be finding ambergris in commercial quantities. The best times are after major storms — large amounts were found after Hurricane Debbie in the early 60s. We meet people racing ahead of us. There are professional hunters in west Cork and Kerry. The thing about this is that you have to be committed to it, particularly now. We are unlikely to find big bits because the common or garden beachcomber will find them beforehand.
Most will find lumps which are basically from trawlers dumping oil which congeals into massive lumps. Drone footage showing the two men with their dogs heading along the dunes gives a dramatic panoramic view of the Wild Atlantic Way in Mayo. The passion for that and for all who supply the ingredients for Demachy is obvious throughout the movie. Keep up to date with the glossiest fashion news, looks and trends for you and your home.
Please update your payment details to keep enjoying your Irish Times subscription. If not, they travel further down the gut and are covered in ambergris: a sticky, gelatinous material which dries to a lump with a resinous texture and then floats on the surface, ending up on beaches in places like South Africa, the East Indies, China, Japan, New Zealand — even Dorset.
As it ages, the smell matures and develops beautifully, and before it can be used perfumery, it must be diluted with alcohol. Others comment that it can smell a bit like the wood in old churches, or Brazil nuts. During the Black Death in Europe, it was believed that carrying a ball of ambergris could prevent plague.
Wild-harvested supplies are obviously extremely erratic — and many countries have outlawed the trade of ambergris, as part of a more general ban on the exploitation and hunting of sperm whales, so ambergris tends to be created synthetically. Aromatic herbs typically evoke gastronomy, but they are also used in perfumery as raw materials. In perfumery, aromatic herbs are fresh and energizing raw materials. Aromatics herbs are classified in three main groups: Lavender notes Mint notes Aniseed notes.
Animal notes of natural origin are today forbidden in the perfume industry. The main ones are civet, musk, castoreum, ambergris and hyraceum. Natural animal notes in perfume creation were used in very subtle fragrances to enhance smoothness in fragrances. Some flowers such as the jasmine, naturally contain animal notes called the indole that can be isolated and used by perfumers to enhance the other notes.
Spices are among the natural raw materials used in perfumery. There are two categories: fresh spices and hot spices. Fresh spices act mainly as top notes in a perfume, and warm spices will develop mainly as heart and base notes. Woods are part of the botanical raw materials used in the perfume compositions, just like fruits and flowers. Many woods can be used in perfumery, such as: sandalwood cedar patchouli vetiver cypress oud wood gaiac wood birch wood.
Modern perfumery was born at the end of the 19th century. At that time, perfumers began to incorporate synthetic ingredients into their formulas, which amplified the palette of the professional, offering them more creativity. It also allows for more abstract olfactory forms. Today, chemists are able to isolate aromatic compounds from a natural raw material, purify them and obtain the molecular structure of the raw material. Once this structure is identified, the specialist will be able to use organic chemistry to recompose the molecules.
As pictorial art has acquired a new dimension with synthetic dyes, perfumery has reached new heights and has allowed new scents with synthetic products.
Balms and resins are raw materials used in the composition of perfumes. They often intervene in fragrances of the oriental or amber family. These materials complement vanilla and bring a note of mystery to the fragrance. Balms and resins are also called balsamic notes. The most used balms and resins in perfumery are myrrh, frankincense, styrax, benzoin, Peru balsam, and Copahu balsam. Castoreum is a secretion from the beaver. Now banned from use, castoreum is one of the natural animal notes used in perfumery, that also include: Civet Animal musk Ambergris Hyraceum.
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