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How to introduce your child to the world of cryptocurrencies? We eventually bite into better-tasting pizza that's made faster and sold cheaper. But what if that large pie delivered to your doorstep costs more than you think?
They argue that the unrelenting push for ever-cheaper pizza ingredients is hurting the planet and driving small and medium-size farms out of business. Some of these farmers feel they have no choice but to move to the megacities sprouting across the globe. Once relocated to urban slums, many find themselves among the estimated 1.
Of the farmers that decide to stay put, some opt for a quicker death, at their own hand. The other is long-distance food from nowhere, monocultural systems that aren't sustainable, and simplified diets, especially for the poor. Global pizza typifies the second option. Another outspoken opponent of the circumstances underlying the worldwide pizza trade has been Philip McMichael, Ph. He believes that the combined processes of bioindustrialization, the ever-increasing reliance of agro-industry on fossil fuels, and the relentless search for the most rapidly expanding overseas markets has led to a phenomenon he calls "the food regime.
While I can understand acute hysteria and mass terror when it comes to melting icecaps, oil slicks the size of Arkansas, and Mahmoud Ahmadinejad with his finger on the trigger of a nuke, I haven't quite gotten my arms around the pizza apocalypse. So I decided to start my investigation at the beginning of the pizza chain, at the place from which a Domino's pie springs forth. I inch my rental car through a dismal-looking industrial park outside Detroit and pull up in front of a low-slung, nondescript building that houses one of Domino's 17 U.
Way back in , Domino's founders, brothers Tom and James Monaghan, purchased their first pizza joint not all that far from this forsaken stretch of Michigan frost and weed.
I'm met at the dough factory by public relations manager Chris Brandon, an enthusiastic something who leads the way into an antiseptic dough-making room of clattering conveyor belts, industrial mixers, precision dough cutters, and metal detectors. It turns out that each lump of Domino's pizza dough must be x-rayed before it can be released into a litigious world, just in case a tooth-crushing twist of metal or stomach-puncturing screw might have fallen off the assembly line and dropped into the mix.
I approach a stainless-steel tureen that comes up to my chest, and watch as a carefully calibrated stream of water flushes into the bowl. After the water comes an autodispensed dose of soy crush--more commonly known as vegetable oil--that turns the liquid a dull yellow. Then pounds of industrial flour explodes out of yet another stainless-steel pipe to join the fun.
Through billowing clouds of white I catch a glimpse of the computer that runs the proprietary Domino's software. Soon it's time for a lifting machine to hoist the quarter-ton glob of dough 15 feet into the air, and then for a tilting machine to tip the entire concoction out of the tureen and into an extremely large stainless-steel hopper.
But a few minutes later, the next pound batch hits the metal ledge of the hopper, teeters off the side, and unceremoniously plops onto the factory floor. Red lights flash, alarm bells ring, and the production line jolts to a halt. For the first time in recorded history, a batch of Domino's pizza dough has missed the bowl. Brandon ushers me away from the slow-spreading ooze and through automatic doors to a warehouse perfused with the aroma of meat, garlic, and onions.
We stride past pallet after pallet of dressings and spices and uncountable cases of "Pizza Sauce Ready to Use" produced by a company called Paradise Tomato Kitchens.
No doubt, Domino's swallows up quite a few of the world's tomatoes. This demand has led to megafarms like the one in Yolo County, one of the largest process tomato producers of California. A vast, perfectly geometric 10, acres of mud is spiked with tomato seedlings that will eventually yield , tons of "process tomatoes"--the kind that become commercial pizza sauce. An operation like this is not replicable in the fields of the developing world.
The furrows have been dug by GPS-guided tractors, the seedlings irrigated by an underground drip often spiked with a nitrogen fertilizer called UN And the process tomatoes themselves are high-tech, high-yield hybrids known as AB2, Sun , and Asgrow For the past hundred years or so, the ever-escalating technology of growing, harvesting, slicing, dicing, and pureeing has enabled process tomato to metastasize into the vegetable world's greatest international commodity, with the bulk of the red stuff spurting from the stainless-steel condensers of factories owned by some of the biggest names in global food, names such as Del Monte, Heinz, and Unilever.
Of course, there are those who defend the efficiencies of the homogenized paste: "The founding of Paradise Tomato Kitchens was rooted in innovation and technology," the company's CEO, Ron Peters, tells me in an e-mail.
It may come as no surprise that the customer base and the economic challenges that concern Peters and Paradise Tomato Kitchens belong to Domino's, Pizza Hut, Papa John's, and Little Caesars--not to the world's tomato growers. Indeed, as Big Pizza's preference for globalized sauce has matured, many of the other farmers who used to make a living growing and selling tomatoes have been pushed out of business.
In Ghana, for example, locally harvested tomatoes were once a staple. But tomato concentrate has destroyed the market there--not to mention the lives of the nearly 2 million people involved in tomato cultivation in one region of the country. Despite Ghana's farming tradition, it has become the world's second-largest importer of process tomatoes, after Germany.
As a result, according to the Peasant Farmers Association of Ghana, more than tomato farmers have gone belly-up. Sadly, this is the same conclusion arrived at by many of Pwayidi's neighbors: Annual waves of suicides have washed across Ghana's northern growing regions as some desperate farmers ingested the insecticide they no longer needed for their tomatoes.
The most expensive ingredient of any pizza pie is neither the dough nor the sauce, but the cheese. About half the U. Mozzarella recently topped Cheddar as the most popular cheese variety. And where does all that mozzarella go?
Onto your pizza, of course. At one point, the company held more patents related to mozzarella than anyone else in the industry. Leprino also happens to be one of the largest privately held companies in the United States, and its employees are notorious for not speaking to the press.
My own repeated attempts to contact James Leprino, the mozzarella billionaire the Denver Post once dubbed "Denver's Biggest Cheese," took me up a ladder of increasingly paranoid cheese executives until I found someone who was quite willing to talk to me for an hour--completely off the record.
According to the most recent data, Leprino must buy an astonishing 5 to 7 percent of the total available U. Put another way, one out of every 20 American milk cows must be dedicated to the production of Leprino's mozzarella.
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