Hammers and duncans will accept food if you target feed; this may accelerate growth. Good luck! Ibn Guest. Frags takes awhile to encrust and grow beyond the frag stage. Take for example with sps tanks. Most of the first year of a sps tank is encrustation and very little growth.
The second year is when you notice frags settling in, hitting the mini colony in size range. The 3rd and 4th years are when they're colony size not the tiny colonies that some people call as such; those are frags and you'll see frags from frags that they're selling and the tank looks filled in and you need to do the actual trimming. They also grow significantly faster at this point. If you want to track their growth and progress, take a pic of them every once in awhile. Here's 3 months of growth on a sps frag.
Ibn said:. Yep, sorry, that should have read 18 and not 17, haha. It came from the members frag swap. The other is making sure the treatment is long enough to cause its intended effect. A dip is rarely sufficient for something that buries its feeding parts in coral tissue red bugs, again. You will get many of them, but not all of them.
There are longer steps necessary to treat effectively. The same with bacterial contamination. Eryrthomycin may help as a surface treatment, but it works by preventing bacterial growth - not killing them it is bacterio-static, not lytic - so it won't be terribly effective. Also ALWAYS remove frag plugs even if encrusted and have to throw away some of it not if its encrusted literally the entire plug ill cut off any part of the plug showing only say this because i have a few growout frags that literally encrusted the entire way aorund the plug top.
Another reason they go into a qt technically my daughters cube is the new qt is so i can see them, if anything lives thru the dip i will either see it whilte its in the qt or when i do round 2 dip So many great responses I kill all SpS that tries to enter my system I use it and find it to be extremely usefull against red bugs! I used to use interceptor but its a pita to get and you have to dip for hours. With Bayer, its only for minutes.
I would seriously caution everyone about the "Bayer" - find out what pesticide you are really using. The one I've seen people on RC posting pics of is a mix of two pesticides. Not only will it kill crustaceans, it does nasty things to vertebrates because of the mixture. Most of the time they are a pyrethroid which isn't so bad to vertebrates including you and I I urge extreme caution.
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy! Since measuring alkalinity seems easier than calcium levels, most reefers will target alkalinity.
Dosers allow for much more flexibility because typically two, three or more separate containers are dosed individually allowing for lots of customized regimens. There are a variety of different manufactures of major and minor trace elements and they each have their approaches. I have a calcium reactor for my display, a reliable dual chamber Procal Calcium Reactor by Marine Technical that I have had for many years.
I use Reborn coarse aragonite and ReMag in the reactor. I use a Bubble Magus doser for my small frag tank with Aquaforest Components. I test alkalinity with a Hanna Checker and nitrates with a Salifert test kit. I test both at least once and usually twice a week. I test Magnesium levels infrequently. I use Triton Lab water testing about twice a year. Nitrates and phosphates are required for organisms to grow and thrive. Too little or too much of either can present problems. High phosphates reduce coral calcification and generally feed unwanted algae.
High nitrates also have been reported to feed algae and dinoflagellates. Most people find with very high nutrients that SPS coral will turn brown. There is the rare reefer who has very high nutrients and a stable and pretty tank. If the nitrate levels are very, very low and the lighting very intense, the potential exists to burn or bleach the SPS.
If nitrate levels are very low, then alkalinity levels need to be in a lower range, closer to seawater, otherwise the potential is for burnt SPS tips. There is also a relationship between the absolute levels of nitrates to phosphates that is required to maintain a healthy biological balance. A nitrate to phosphate ratio should likely be anywhere from to , although that ratio is probably very forgiving. It seems if that nitrates or phosphates drop too low or if the nitrate: phosphate ratio falls out of range, that stability is compromised and that encourages harmful cyanobacteria blooms as well as other harmful or destructive plagues.
Beautiful colored SPS require keeping nitrates and phosphates at relatively low levels yet present in measurable quantities and in an appropriate ratio to each other. I target my nitrates between ppm although they are generally right at 5ppm. My phosphates range from. I need to supplement my nitrates otherwise they drop too low.
I add powdered KNO3 daily to my display at the same time I feed the fish in the morning. My phosphates remain in the described range without the use of GFO or lanthanum chloride.
Corals require nutrients. It seems the best source of coral food is happy fish doing what fish do after they eat: poop. So the best coral food is simply any good fish food that is enjoyed by your fish. There are many manufactured food choices as well as custom home blends that provide appropriate nutrition for your fish and ultimately your SPS coral. It is important to keep in mind that the primary source of nitrates and phosphates in a reef tank is fish food.
Poorly filtered water can additionally be a contributor of nitrates and phosphates but should not be if using a quality filtration system that is appropriately maintained. And of course, old rock can be a source of phosphates as well. Think of fish food as a block of nitrates and of phosphates. Whenever you provide fish food to the tank, you are adding nitrates and phosphates to your tank. Your fish only absorb a small amount of the nitrates and phosphates in their food and most is returned to the water as fish waste.
And certainly unconsumed food is also part of that added nitrate and phosphate. If you overfeed your fish, fish foods have high enough levels of phosphates to adversely lower the nitrate to phosphate ratio. Too much fish food equals too many nutrients.
Ultimately the amount of food given is dependent on the size and number of fish as well as the nutrient export. I do not add all of them daily, I rotate among them. I feed my fish twice daily. Additives are an exciting topic. Everyone wants additives to work. It would be wonderful to pour an additive in that would optimize coral color and grow SPS corals fast. There are many beautiful tanks that use additives from one manufacturer or another.
It is perhaps possible that these additives are the reason for the beautiful success. Or perhaps they are inconsequential. It is difficult to assess objectively if an additive is significant in improving coral color or growth. Most reefers will at some point try some additives in their tank in the hopes of significant color and growth improvement. Each of these systems is popular. Some find these systems complicated and others describe them as streamlined and easy.
Be cautious when adding this coral since it can take over a tank. Well, it made my list since I have one that is eighteen inches wide! The Cali Tort is an Acropora tortuosa and has blue corallites and branches with hints of green. Under certain lighting conditions the green will not be visible, causing some to misclassify it as an Oregon Blue Tort.
In terms of placement, I recommend keeping this coral high in the tank under medium to bright lighting. It should also receive a moderate to high amount of flow. Note that fast growth can be both a blessing as well as a curse. Yes, fast growing corals make it possible to have a more mature looking tank sooner rather than later. However, aggressive corals will require more attention since they will have to be cutback more often to prevent them from encroaching on other corals. As such, they should be given a wide berth versus other corals when introduced to a tank.
If you would like some help with a new tank build, including help designing a custom aquarium, or help re-configuring your current setup then you can visit this page for more information. As for additional insights and information, please explore my many other reef tank and SPS related articles as well as my YouTube channel.
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