From what I have heard rendaid shouldn't be used on a painted surface. Agree with martinmj and a couple off others on this, There is no product or company that will offer a guarantee if going over paint or should i say if your trying to bond a product to paint the bond is only as good as the paint bond to the substrate, the only way to guarantee against de-lamination is to create a mechanical fix, Okay you may get an adhesive coat to fix to the paint or a slurry of some sort but this needs to be backed up with a mechanical fix, so it's hack off , score through the old render to the substrate diamond blade cuts at reg intervals, with and an adh coat and mesh with additional mech fixings, or Eml would be my preferred method, if not removing render , fix rib-lath Eml or similar , or cuts and adhesive coat with mesh and mechanical fixings at regular intervals.
If you find a product that does guarantee for this without any other type off assist then please let me know. Ive done a few similar jobs in Spain and as Warriour says it is always better to get the paint of but often the client dont want to pay for it so we do as Warriour suggested and score with an angle grinder then prime with the Spanish equivalant of WBA, Betoncontact not sure if its exactly the same stuff as it is often used outside but ive not heard of WBA being used externaly but i dont see why not perhaps someone knows.
Would you recomend scoring the mortar joints with a disc cutter. With the sbr are you sying to paint onto walls, then splaterdash after, or mixing sbr in with splaterdash?
Opinions please. Wouldn't do mate you need to think that this render is 15mm think and hanging on for dear life on a thin layer of paint you need a mech fix. Would a needle gun be the way to go on this 1 and scud the brickwork as normal? Or go the grinder route? Couldnt find anything that says you can use WBA externaly but it does say it can be used to support render.
The stuff i use in Spain is called Implafix and is made by Grupo Puma it looks exactly like WBA but you can mix it with water, apply it with roller of brush and when dry render over for some reason if it has been on the wall for more than three days its no good and you cant render over it.
I suppose they are just covering theire arse realy as if the EML fails if not fixed properly they are safe, i would imagine it would be cheaper to needle gun paint of rather than EML.
If its on a real tight budget, you could rack the joints and pre rend and embed mesh into the pre rend then use a mechanical fixing every 12" to hold the mesh and then krend over the lot. I'd score it with an angle grinder. You want your home to look new without having to move, which is expensive!! Your choice of colour is only limited to your imagination.
This product is less prone to cracking and discolouration. Just a note for the more adventurous, the Texture Coat system can also be applied over internal brick walls that have been painted. Check out the photo — colour - Astro Zinger. Ensure the painted surface remaining is not flaking This is a cheap option and works very well, Don't risk it, remove the paint first using a product called "peelaway".
Slightly off topic Faux brick is not nice at the best, IMO, but when it's a cacky color too!! Can it be painted successfully? Or maybe that product that Prop suggested would be suitable?
My house was all painted brick. It is now rendered, i did it with a mate who is a renderer. They both stuck no problems 3 yrs ago. We used a strong bondcrete mix, painted onto the painted brick before rendering, and applied basecoat while BC is still tacky. Also put some Bondcrete in with the SSL mix, in the mixer. All good. You must log in or register to reply here.
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